Frequently Asked Questions

Q Those black sandals don't look very comfortable - wouldn't the porters prefer boots?
Q Why is my Inka Trail costing me so much more than it says in the guidebook?
Q Is the Inka Trail difficult?
Q What is the best thing to do in the event of altitude sickness?
Q Will I get high on coca leaves?
Q How much should porters carry?
Q Isn’t it better to carry my own stuff so I can be sure I won’t be exploiting anybody?
Q How much should I tip the porters, and how does it work?
Q When should I hire a porter?
Q What languages do the porters speak?
Q Which tour operators treat their porters particulary well?
Q How does the law stand on porters' issues in Peru?

Q Those black sandals don't look very comfortable - wouldn't the porters prefer boots?

When the list of essential equipment was made at porter workshops, boots were never mentioned. When porters were asked about boots, they replied that they like their ojotas. This may change, especially with some of the younger porters, but at the moment they are adamant that their recycled tyres do the job. Why not try a pair - they are extremely cheap in San Pedro market in Cusco.

Q Why is my Inka Trail costing me so much more than it says in the guidebook?

In 2005, the government increased the entrance fees on the trail. For tourists, this rose from $25 to $60 and for porters from $5 to $10. The train fare increased to around $65 (depending on which train you get). On top of that, take into consideration the cost of food and paying the guide, cook and porters. A local agency did the sums soon after the regulations changed and worked out that it was making $2 on an Inka Trail before office costs - in effect a loss! Fierce competition among agencies is one of the reasons the porters are not getting a fair wage or better conditions.

Q Is the Inka Trail difficult?

You know the answer to this one: it depends! You reach 4000m on the second day after climbing for the best part of the day. Especially if you are within your first five days at altitude, this may give you headaches and shortness of breath is very likely. Generally however, you start very early and have a long time to get to the second campsite. But the key is to keep going and share your coca leaves with the porters who are carrying around 25kg. And don't forget that even people who live in Cusco (at 3300m) still get short of breath.

Q What is the best thing to do in the event of altitude sickness?

Wherever possible "go down". But, if you are staying in Cusco, you may still feel the effects. The best advice is to sleep, take plenty of fluids and you could also try coca tea. The porters chew coca leaves wrapped around a black resin called llipta. When you are actually walking and active (especially on day two of the trail), this may help since it dilates the blood vessels and carries oxygen to the parts of the body that need it.

Q Will I get high on coca leaves?

No - sorry! Although cocaine can be extracted from the leaves, it involves a long process involving acids and distilling. Your body simply does not have the capacity to extract much from the leaves.

Q How much should porters carry?

There is a legal limit of 20kg per porter plus a 5kg allowance for their own personal things. There are weigh stations to check this although unscrupulous agencies manage to find ways around it, like getting tourists to carry their own belongings through the weighing points.

Q Isn’t it better to carry my own stuff so I can be sure I won’t be exploiting anybody?

If you go on the Inka Trail with an agency, you will automatically have porters carrying things for you. Maybe not your own personal things, but equipment like the cooking tent and the sleeping tent. So in terms of your own stuff, it is entirely up to you.

Q How much should I tip the porters, and how does it work?

The porters have been very specific about this. They value themselves according to how much the tourists appreciate them and so the tip is very important. If the tip is not a minimum of 30 soles per porter, they wonder what they have done wrong.

Take plenty of change. The third night of the Inka Trail is usually the last time you will see all the porters together. Most of them will not continue to Machu Picchu but go down the mountain directly from WinayWayna to the train stop at km 108. Work out how many porters you have and then try to ensure that the pooled tips add up to at least 30 soles each. Ideally, the porters have asked that the money is divided up and given to them individually, because that avoids the problem of the guide or cook taking charge of the envelope and taking a cut for themselves. Tips for the guide and cook should generally be treated separately.

Q When should I hire a porter?

It is better to organize a porter before you go on the trail rather than realise halfway through that you’re not enjoying carrying your pack at this altitude and want some help. Even turning up on the day of your trail and telling the agency that you want an extra porter is too late because the porters need to register in advance.

Q What languages do the porters speak?

The vast majority of porters speak Quechua as their first language but will have learned Spanish at school, especially younger porters. Quechua itself is an oral language and was only written down for the first time by linguists from local universities wanting to preserve it. So whilst you may well buy a Quechua dictionary, it is highly likely that Quechua speakers themselves wouldn’t necessarily recognize the words.

Q Which tour operators treat their porters particularly well

In trip reports from South American Explorers members, some agencies constantly score well but this reflects how professional their service is towards their customers and not necessarily how well they treat their porters. What can really determine the treatment of the porters is the character and the attitude of the guide and cook working on that particular trip. Sometimes the guide will introduce trekkers to the porters and encourage them to give a generous tip.

To help you to make a decision about which agency to use, please read our guidelines before booking your tour.

Q How does the law stand on porters' issues in Peru?

There is a Porters' Law that was issued in December 2001 but government officials themselves lament the fact that it is, in their own words, "unimplementable". It does however form a basis from which to discuss what is actually possible and desirable. Subsequent regulations make slightly more sense of the law.